Customer Review

Posted on Fri, Oct. 06, 2006 by Herald Leader, Lexington KY

 

 

http://www.kentucky.com/mld/kentucky/entertainment/events/15673282.htm

 

 

RESTAURANT REVIEW

 

A new direction in Indian food

Banana Leaf's delicious and exciting 'southern' cuisine gives Lexington a taste of what it's been missing

By Wendy Miller

CONTRIBUTING RESTAURANT CRITIC

Lexington's Indian culinary scene has been defined for years by the northern half of the nation.

Just when it looked as if every menu would be restricted to variations of this curry and that raita, with a tandoori chicken and naan thrown in for good measure, Banana Leaf opened its doors, introducing the exciting dishes of the south of India to Fayette County and, if I'm not mistaken, to the rest of the commonwealth as well.

But to say "the south" about India is like generalizing about the southern United States. Nuances get lost. So, to clarify, we are talking Tamil Nadu here, where masalas are redolent of coriander, chutneys are white with coconut, chilies are ever-present, fennel seeds come in the meal (not just after it), and steamed rice discs called idlis, and rice and lentil pancakes stand in for bread.

The best way to experience Banana Leaf is at dinner. Though the lunch buffet ($6.99 Monday through Thursday, $7.99 Friday and Saturday) is a good deal and a perfectly decent introduction -- there are usually puffy puri breads, soupy lentil sambars, hyper-sweet carrot halvah for dessert, plus a couple of curries and rices -- the inevitable lingering chills the food's temperature, freshness and presentation.

In the evening, however, you can select from an extensive, prepared-to-order menu. To simplify choosing among the dozens of options, it might help to understand the essential building blocks: two sauces, three appetizers and three pancakes. Then there are the house specialties.

The dipping sauces that appear repeatedly are a spicy coconut chutney with black mustard seeds, and sambar, a thin curried lentil soup.

Appetizers are deep-fried. The breadiest are the chewy bondas -- lentil doughnuts, really. Add a crunchy pakora and a bhaji with onions (think Indian fritters) and you have the essential sampler for $4.50 that easily serves three. A couple could, and should, share the rasam vadai, a little silver tray of two rice lentil doughnuts served in a tomato and tamarind broth called rasam ($3.50).

Dosas, whose dramatic diameters exceed their platters' borders, are lacy light crepes of rice flour and lentils. Along with semolina-based ravas and frittata-like utthappams that are stuffed or topped with fruits, vegetables, nuts and aromatics, they are palettes for most entrees (all less than $7).

I particularly enjoyed the many flavors of the tomato and pea utthappam with sambar and coconut chutney and a brilliant smear of a thick paste of red chilies, tomatoes and onions, contrasted with the simple ghee masala dosa, rich with clarified butter and spicy potatoes.

Then there are the specials, all less than $8.

A must-try is pongal, rich, ghee-gilded rice with cumin seeds and black peppercorns; ditto the puris, steamy and ready for filling with garbanzo and green pea curry.

Southern India has its version of hash, called kothu parota with chicken and eggs; it's served here with a side of chicken curry.

And when it's available, order the tilapia curry. Spicy yet subtle, it brings layers of savory sauce, then sweet fish, then heat.

I think my favorite, however, was the chili chicken, vibrant red, simply peppers and chicken, with a slight sourness reminiscent of India's sun-dried salty pickles.

Throughout the meal, cool down the heat with sweet masala tea ($1.50) or a glass of tropical mango lassi ($2.50), then finish with gulabjamun ($2.50), fried doughnut holes soaked in rose water syrup.

Banana Leaf, family owned and operated, is welcoming, casual and unfussy, and the food, every delicious bite prepared on the spot, is straight from the heart.

Restaurant review

Banana Leaf

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Where: 319-A S. Limestone

Phone: (859) 252-9595.

Hours: Lunch buffet: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri., noon-3 p.m. Sat. Dinner: 5:30-9:30 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 5:30-10 p.m. Fri., Sat. Closed Sundays and 2:30-5:30 p.m. weekdays.

Other: Vegetarian-friendly. No handicapped access. Limited street parking, but the restaurant has an arrangement with a nearby Premier parking lot. Awaiting beer license.